Love this story, thanks for posting. There was a moment, a few years ago (2023), when I was working through the details of the Massican x Gallo partnership, we talked about making Massican at Asti. I would have loved that (but damn it is a little far away from a bunch of my vineyards today!).
That “little ol’ winemaker’ was a actually Jim Backus—also the voice of Mr Magog. . . and do you think the current owners are that interested in history?
Donna and I lived in this neighborhood for a time in the 70’s. Although we were dirt poor we were frequent visitors to the many small producers in the area. The legacy vineyards were a formidable presence and the sense of history was palpable. It would be a perfect place for a museum.
Robert, Ben fatto! I only remember visiting Asti about 50 years, early 70's when I was starting in the wine business. I should have paid more attention then! But this history of the italians in California is fascinating and a wonderful story, so thanks for reminding me of it. BTW, I bought about 13 years ago a book which is 'adjacent' to this story (signed copy no less). Only in Italian, it's a good read and fills out much of the history. Perhaps you know it: Piemontesi nel Far West, da Maurizio Rosso; Studi e Testimonianze sulla Emigrazione PIemontese in California(1991 Gribaudo Editore)
You got in! I have been trying to arrange an expedition there with several other history-oriented wine folks in California! There is a nice little book on Italian Swiss as well called “Legacy of a Village” by Jack Florence. If I could post a photo I have the 1896 reviews of Italian Swiss “Barolo”, Barbera, and a bunch more
Dear Pietro thank you for your note and reminding me the book is on my shelf! (I am adding a quote from it this morning). I’d love to see those reviews! As a subscriber you should be able to restack the article with a note/photos.
Great article. I believe the man who said, 'That little old winemaker, me,' was the great, now 100-year-old, Mel Brooks. And I thought Asti was only famous for being the home of the late, great comedian-turned-winemaker, Pat Paulson. I still laugh at his fake tattoo, 'Born to Loose.' (sic)
We live nearby and we love visiting the smaller family wineries, still around, that are descended from those early Italian immigrants to the Swiss Colony. There are some great stories there.
Would love some substack wine writer recommendations.
An indication of how pervasive was the legacy of the late 19th century Italian-Californian winemaking tradition is that when Heitz Cellars debuted in 1961 they produced both Grignolino and Angelica. They continued producing the latter well into the 1970s (I sold the wine retail) and have never stopped marketing Grignolio (recently reinvented in sparkling form).
I wonder whether it's correct that Italian Swiss Colony's plantings were own-rooted. Many of the old vines in Sonoma today date from the late 1880s and the 1890s precisely because that is when grafted replanting began in earnest - at least, on the part of those foresighted - in response to phylloxera. (The first California finding of phylloxera was at Geyserville in 1874.)
Enjoyed Heitz Grignolio. In the far back of my mind I also think Inglenook may have produced it for a while and Louis Martini wouldn't surprise me. Was also produced in the Santa Clara area, most notably Thomas Kruse Winery in Gilroy (red & rose). He had an early 20th century vineyard on Day Road with Grignolio vines.
Love this story, thanks for posting. There was a moment, a few years ago (2023), when I was working through the details of the Massican x Gallo partnership, we talked about making Massican at Asti. I would have loved that (but damn it is a little far away from a bunch of my vineyards today!).
That “little ol’ winemaker’ was a actually Jim Backus—also the voice of Mr Magog. . . and do you think the current owners are that interested in history?
I dunno. I’m asking around.
Fantastic article ! Brings to light all this great history of California winemaking which needs to re invigorate the wine industry .
Donna and I lived in this neighborhood for a time in the 70’s. Although we were dirt poor we were frequent visitors to the many small producers in the area. The legacy vineyards were a formidable presence and the sense of history was palpable. It would be a perfect place for a museum.
A lot of 1960s hot tubs came from ISC.
Robert, Ben fatto! I only remember visiting Asti about 50 years, early 70's when I was starting in the wine business. I should have paid more attention then! But this history of the italians in California is fascinating and a wonderful story, so thanks for reminding me of it. BTW, I bought about 13 years ago a book which is 'adjacent' to this story (signed copy no less). Only in Italian, it's a good read and fills out much of the history. Perhaps you know it: Piemontesi nel Far West, da Maurizio Rosso; Studi e Testimonianze sulla Emigrazione PIemontese in California(1991 Gribaudo Editore)
Thank you for the note!
You got in! I have been trying to arrange an expedition there with several other history-oriented wine folks in California! There is a nice little book on Italian Swiss as well called “Legacy of a Village” by Jack Florence. If I could post a photo I have the 1896 reviews of Italian Swiss “Barolo”, Barbera, and a bunch more
Dear Pietro thank you for your note and reminding me the book is on my shelf! (I am adding a quote from it this morning). I’d love to see those reviews! As a subscriber you should be able to restack the article with a note/photos.
Posted - didn't know I could do that, thank you. Still figuring out the Substack thing...
Great article. I believe the man who said, 'That little old winemaker, me,' was the great, now 100-year-old, Mel Brooks. And I thought Asti was only famous for being the home of the late, great comedian-turned-winemaker, Pat Paulson. I still laugh at his fake tattoo, 'Born to Loose.' (sic)
This was so cool to read as an American living in Piemonte right now. Going to check out those book recommendations!
Thanks for this!
We live nearby and we love visiting the smaller family wineries, still around, that are descended from those early Italian immigrants to the Swiss Colony. There are some great stories there.
Would love some substack wine writer recommendations.
Check out my subscribers and those I subscribe too there’s a lot of good stuff in there. You are subscribed right?
I am now, just found you.
Sorry. Mr Magoo!
Thanks for this wonderful and important report!
An indication of how pervasive was the legacy of the late 19th century Italian-Californian winemaking tradition is that when Heitz Cellars debuted in 1961 they produced both Grignolino and Angelica. They continued producing the latter well into the 1970s (I sold the wine retail) and have never stopped marketing Grignolio (recently reinvented in sparkling form).
I wonder whether it's correct that Italian Swiss Colony's plantings were own-rooted. Many of the old vines in Sonoma today date from the late 1880s and the 1890s precisely because that is when grafted replanting began in earnest - at least, on the part of those foresighted - in response to phylloxera. (The first California finding of phylloxera was at Geyserville in 1874.)
According to History of a Village. They were. The colony was late to adopt rootstock in the 00's. Thanks for the great insights!
Enjoyed Heitz Grignolio. In the far back of my mind I also think Inglenook may have produced it for a while and Louis Martini wouldn't surprise me. Was also produced in the Santa Clara area, most notably Thomas Kruse Winery in Gilroy (red & rose). He had an early 20th century vineyard on Day Road with Grignolio vines.
Great post, Robert. Learn something new every day.
The wine world needs a plan to save and showcase this place. Could be a top wine museum!